Mai Khao is a relatively unspoiled section of Phuket, where representatives of the hospitality industry have put aside commercial rivalries to create a new paradigm for responsible tourism. Barry Daniel finds out more
Most visitors to Phuket come out of the airport and turn right at the first traffic lights they encounter. They head south to Patong, Surin, Phuket town, Karon and Kata, encountering the chaotic traffic, overdevelopment, environmental stresses and frazzled populace that characterise much of Phuket these days. Very few consider a left turn, which would take them to a largely unexplored corner of the island, called Mai Khao.
Peace and quiet are increasingly rare commodities on Phuket but can be found in Mai Khao, which translates as “white tree”. Here is a vision of a tropical island as it used to be. The sand stretches for miles, palms sway in the breeze, barely another person can be seen and the sea is begging for you to swim. There are a few big-name Mai Khao resorts now but on the whole the area has yet to be overtaken by development. This is partly because Mai Khao is actually part of Sirinat National Park and much of the land is protected. The park itself is a fantastic attraction, spread over 90 square kilometres containing a saltwater mangrove forest, a nature trail with a huge wooden walking platform and a wide variety of plants and animals. Mai Khao is also the gateway to the Sarasin bridge, which leads to the southern Isthmus of Kra and its abundant beaches, fabulous islands and vast national parks like Khao Sok with its wild elephants and tigers.
The region remained undeveloped and largely ignored by tourists as late as the turn of the millennium and only two types of visionary seemed to see any potential in White Tree beach; one reptilian and the other human. Leatherback and ridley sea turtles have been coming to Mai Khao for millions of years. The females return every year after migrating huge distances to the very beach upon which they were born to lay their precious eggs between October and February. Human activities such as netting and egg gathering severely impacted the species and they are now on the World Wildlife Fund list of Thai fauna that is critically endangered.
The second Mai Khao visionary was William Heinecke, chairman of Minor International Group, who opened JW Marriott Phuket Resort on Mai Khao in 2002. While seeing the great potential of the area, Heinecke was also very sensitive to the need to conserve the unspoiled environment, as this was a major attraction to visitors and one that would become increasingly compromised in Phuket as unregulated development proceeded. “The Mai Khao area is adjacent to a national park and we consulted with local authorities and environmental groups on the environmental impact of tourism in the area,” he says. “Planning and tourism had to take that into account in terms of the building and landscaping, to ensure the local flora and fauna remained the same as the national park.”
During its grand opening celebrations in March 2002, JW Marriott donated two million baht to launch the Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation, which raises funds for and awareness of the plight of the giant leatherbacks. Before and during the construction phase of the resort, the developers exceeded every requirement of the stringent environmental impact study for the project, ensuring environmental responsibility, safety and conservation. The resort continues to work closely with the local authorities to support their efforts and awareness of their work. Educational programmes are held for associates, guests and visitors and indeed learning about the reptiles and donating to their conservation have become essential parts of the brand and a key differentiator from some other upmarket resorts on Phuket.
The managers involved in the luxurious resorts around Mai Khao are similarly concerned with the environmental integrity of the region, so in October 2009 they formed the Northern Phuket Resorts Alliance, not only to market and promote the region, but also to best manage its sustainable development. Since some parts of Phuket’s planning and development have been at the expense of the environment, the Alliance was initiated so each of the resorts in the area could work together to promote Mai Khao in a responsible and sustainable way that doesn’t infringe on its unique environment. The Alliance committee meets regularly to develop an ongoing programme of marketing and promotion for the entire Mai Khao region. They’ve made culinary arts and wine a central focus with events such as the December 2010 North Phuket Culinary Festival with SALA Phuket Resort & Spa and Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa co-hosting the longest dining table in Phuket, a Jim Thompson silk fashion show with international DJ Charles Schilling at Anantara Phuket Villas and the Biggest Sunday Brunch on the lawns of JW Marriott. In July 2011 they staged a Grapes and Grazing Week with four world-famous experts providing wines to complement sensational cuisine provided by the group’s executive chefs.
Forthcoming events include a community services and beach clean-up event in October, then another week of cuisine and fashion-based festivities in early December and finally a collaboration designed to turn Mai Khao into a grand New Year’s Eve party venue. This collaboration works because all the parties derive benefits from it and it gives the resorts more power as a group to manage environmental protection, help the local community and work in harmony with the local authorities, Tourism Authority of Thailand, police and other bodies. This is a model for the future of responsible tourist development from which other, more overtly competitive elements in Phuket could learn.
In addition to its strong environmental initiatives, JW Marriott was a pioneer in other ways that set the bar for subsequent developments in Mai Khao. A flair for superb landscaping and design in extensive tropical grounds was one; dedication to sport, health and wellness was another; and a passion for fine restaurants in romantic settings was the third. Bill Heinecke brought in two doyens of creativity to help plan and model the grounds of the new Marriott: Bill Bensley from Bangkok and Phuket-based Australian artist and sculptor John Underwood. Bensley is a prolific landscape architect, originally from California, who established an enviable reputation designing luxury resorts and hotels around the world. His designs often include unique furnishings, fixtures and works of art that his long time collaborator John Underwood creates at his zany factory on Phuket’s bypass road.
The JW Marriott Phuket Resort is set amongst 11 hectares of lush tropical landscaped gardens, complete with lily ponds and areas of naturally preserved coastal wetlands, blending with the local environment. The low, sweeping design, with its rock walls, broad reflecting ponds, water features and ornate roofing has an imperial feel, albeit with light-hearted additions such as the poolside elephant and turtle sculptures that spout water. Many of the fixtures, furnishings and etched glass, including 1,000 woven burnished-steel light fittings, were created at Underwood’s factory.
On the health and sports fronts Mandara Spa offers private treatment suite facilities and a beauty salon where its signature four-handed massage has to be experienced to be believed. There are floodlit tennis courts, a large outdoor pool and fitness centre and sauna. The resort also provides excursion services such as hiking, horse riding, jungle and elephant trekking, dive and boat trips and snorkelling advice.
The second major resort in Mai Khao was SALA Phuket Resort & Spa belonging to Tos and Sookta Chirathivat, which opened in December 2007 with 79 pool villas and suites. The resort combines historical Sino-Portuguese architecture with modern five-star facilities such as a luxurious spa and gym, three beachside swimming pools, extensive lawns and a breezy open sala restaurant where Chef Jan Hollister serves delicious but uncomplicated cuisine that combines the flair of a French bistro with the ultra-healthiness of a Californian beach club, nicely complemented by an award-winning cellar. “One market segment in which we’ve built a considerable following is for romantic weddings,” says general manager Jon Ashenden. “A variety of locations for the ceremony are available, including golden beaches, lush green lawns, or an intimate sunset rooftop, and our staff have become expert at providing every conceivable supporting service.”
Not content to rest on his laurels, Bill Heinecke added the Anantara brand, which takes its name from the Sanskrit for “without end”. It was positioned as an affordable alternative luxury brand with an ethos of introducing guests to the delights of Thai culture. At the resort’s opening in October 2008, Heinecke said Anantara Phuket Villas is positioned just a notch below luxury as more people nowadays are looking for affordable luxury. They still want the pool villa but at a better price.
Again Bill Bensley worked his creative magic in landscaping and design, with 83 pool villas spread around gorgeous pools and lagoons with wooden walkways, fountains and even splashing ducks with their very own villa. Complementing the resort’s inviting accommodation is a host of services and facilities of the highest standard, including premium restaurants, bars, a spa and leisure options ranging from diving in pristine waters, to learning the ancient art of Thai cookery.
The pool villas are beautifully rendered with interior décor inspired by southern Thai style and finished to the highest international standard. Each villa comes with its own hardwood sun deck and has a double soaking tub in which to unwind beside the private pool. The beachside areas are particularly beguiling, with a huge infinity-edged pool, extensive lawns and a very cool sundowner bar with huge loungers, chilled sounds and a great drinks menu. General manager Marc Hehir adds, “Close at hand is the signature restaurant Sea.Fire.Salt, which serves delectable seafoodbased cuisine from a beachside barbecue. We are the only place to offer a salt sommelier who helps you select from dozens of blended salts to give your meal an amazing finishing touch. Complementing the food is a sophisticated blend of design, music and lighting.”
Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa was next to open in October 2010 and was well named as it represents a revitalising extension to the august Marriott parent brand, as well as another luxury endorsement for Mai Khao. The Marriott’s stated intention with its growing Renaissance brand was to make major inroads into the five-star luxury lifestyle sector of the holiday market, as opposed to the well-heeled corporate and business sector, which is the focus of their world-famous core brands. The new resort, with 150 rooms and 30 suites, was the third Renaissance in Thailand and is positioned as an ultimate escape for intimate vacations, executive retreats and honeymoons.
Tina Edmundson is the senior vice-president of lifestyle brands for the Marriott group and can perhaps be forgiven for having waxed lyrical when the resort opened. “Within our unique portfolio of distinctive hotels, this Phuket resort stands out like no other,” she said, “offering legendary Thai service combined with modern touches of luxury and local architectural design which offer an unparalleled ambience and style at one of the world’s most desirable vacation spots.”
The resort’s general manager Jason Nuell explains his thoughts about pleasing two distinct categories of guests: families with children, and young singles, couples and honeymooners. “While parents are relaxing at Quan Spa, children can take advantage of the kids’ club that offers video games, reading corners and activity centres,” he says. “Babysitting services are also available for families with infants. And a fully equipped fitness centre has modern cardio machines and free weights along with several fitness classes for those who enjoy an active lifestyle. So there are ample areas where all our different guest groups can enjoy themselves without necessarily overlapping.”
Renaissance offers no less than five restaurants that cater to every palate, social occasion and demographic visitor sector. The philosophy of its fine-dining restaurant Loca Vore is, as the name suggests, to emphasise dishes that feature the best of local food from seafood to meats, to spices, fruits and vegetables. Diners wander about the spacious buffet picking out the fresh produce they would like to eat then selecting their preferred sauces and cooking methods. “Phuket and the Andaman Sea are of course famous as a haven for fresh seafood from lobsters to shrimps and fish to crabs so it is a great opportunity to build a menu that highlights these fresh local resources,” explains executive chef Nathan Chilcott, who trained under Gordon Ramsay. “This could well be the future of dining and is definitely a way of deconstructing the old fashioned one-size-fits-all buffets.”
The latest hotel to open is the 246-room Holiday Inn, which has just been launched at the southern extremity of the Mai Khao region as a flagship in the brand’s much-publicised global renovation and re-launch programme. The resort sits opposite another natural lake and the grounds are verdant and extensive with a huge pool, gym, spa, kids’ club and a beachside Thai-Italian fusion restaurant. “We wanted to provide an affordable four-star alternative to the abundant top-end luxury in the region, so that hardworking families and couples can access the benefits of Mai Khao without necessarily paying top dollar,” says general manager Simon Morley.
Most recently, the Centara Group has taken over management of the five-star West Sands resort, set in 47 acres of lush tropical landscaping, bordering on 500 metres of pristine beach frontage and located so close to the airport that planespotters will be delighted. It is a huge development with a wide diversity of accommodation including deluxe rooms, suites, penthouses and beach and pool villas. Further development phases due for completion in October 2013 will take the total number of units to 784.
Dining and bar facilities include a beachside barbecue and a Thai restaurant, while leisure facilities include Spa Cenvaree, a fitness centre, tennis court and a kids’ club. Perhaps most bizarrely of all the resort also boasts the Splash Jungle Waterpark, which covers 6,400 square metres and cost US$4 million to build. It features 12 waterslides of varying heights and speeds, as well as a 335-metre Lazy River and a wave pool.
Until fairly recently, the Mai Khao Beach area wasn’t exactly a retail hotspot but thanks to the opening Turtle Village, holiday shopping is now available. Located a short walk from Anantara and JW Marriott, this uniquely designed village has two levels and covers over 3,000 square metres of retail space. Here you can find gifts, Thai souvenirs, clothing and it even has its own Coffee Club and Bill Bentley Pub. A novel idea is the Convention Centre, with its winning design in the shape of a sea turtle – although its progress from concept to reality seems to move as slowly as one of the aquatic reptiles. A member of the Democrat Party’s shadow cabinet recently said that the project has been studied for 15 years already and would be an asset for MICE tourism in the run-up to the establishment of the ASEAN Economic Community in 2015. Who knows if it will make that deadline?
Perhaps the final word on Mai Khao should come from its earliest visionary, Bill Heinecke. “The resorts in the Alliance have immersed themselves and work together in the local communities by building much needed playground equipment for the local schools; using locally produced vegetables to keep the farmers in business and setting up guest activities such as tapping rubber at the local plantations in order to give back to the local community,” he says. “We are all working towards the same goal and that is to showcase this beautiful area and in the best possible way that preserves its flora and fauna in their natural environment.”